The Complete Guide to Dinner in Japan

The Complete Guide to Dinner in Japan

Every country has their own customs about eating three (or more) square meals a day. When it comes to Japan, dinner often gets the lime light with its dizzying array of dining styles – from standing to starred restaurants – and wide variety of cuisine. Learn about dinner in Japan and how to navigate your nightly feasting while traveling in Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. 

What is Dinner Like in Japan

When people go out to eat in Japan, they have tons of options, appropriate for different situations and group sizes. Eateries like ramen shops, standing sushi counters, and chain restaurants are often happy to serve ohitori-sama diners. Counter dining is particularly well suited to single diners, and even going to bars and izakaya solo isn’t outside the norm. This is great news for people who are visiting Japan alone and hope to eat a lot of sushi.

The working-man’s dinner in Japan

Since modern ways of working were adopted in the late 1900’s, it’s become more and more common to spend dinner time with people from the office. Eating and drinking with coworkers is seen as a gateway to better relationships for some, and as a nuisance obligation to others. Either way, events like nomikai (where office workers go out in groups to drink and eat on official or unofficial business) and settai (where important members of one company meet important members of another to discuss business) have become important factors of evening dining in Japan.

 Nomikai are usually casual dinners, often large-scale, and might feature a banquet array of pre-ordered dishes or all-you-can-eat-and-drink plans. Settai are more often held at upscale venues where the courses lean more fine dining. If you’re having a business meeting in Japan with an important client, expect that it might be held over food and drink.

Settai in particular play an important role in the koshitsu culture at many Japanese restaurants. Koshitsu are private rooms that can be booked for parties or private use. These rooms aren’t designated only for VIPs either, they’re appropriate for any situation where a diner needs more privacy and can make for a better dining experience when eating with children or having important conversations. 

What Japanese people have for dinner on vacation

When on vacation, many people choose to book ryokan, classical lodgings that include meals with the stay. Traditionally, both dinner and breakfast are served at the ryokan. These traditional experiences are becoming more rare, but are an important part of travel in Japan and definitely worth a splurge for anyone visiting rural areas. 

Ryokan dinners are prolonged, multi-course, and almost always guaranteed to leave you full to bursting. These meals introduce regional specialties and local produce, but are less flexible to dietary restrictions or catered towards international tourists than standard restaurants. It’s a good way to enjoy a culinary introduction to a place, complete with local sake, fruit juices, and so on.

What Foods do People Eat for Dinner in Japan?

Some foods, like ramen and soba, tonkatsu and curry, are eaten any time of day. However, there are other must-try foods that are harder to find on a lunch menu. Definitely spend a couple nights of dinner on these foods while visiting Japan, because they will be hard to get otherwise!

Many of the protein-heavy foods we love are often sequestered to the dinner table. Yakiniku, yakitori, sukiyaki, and shabu shabu specialty restaurants (not including chains) tend to only offer their full experience in the evening. Those that do open at lunch have more limited menu options. Okonomiyaki and kushiage also tend to be geared towards evening service.

How different types of restaurants handle dinner service

From lunch to dinner, Chinese restaurants can completely transform from a room of one-person diners to 4 and 6 tops, making it imposing to enter. While yakitori and izakaya venues are usually very welcoming to individual diners, family-style prep and big servings make yakiniku and hot-pot (shabu shabu in particular) best enjoyed with friends or family. For an authentic experience, go to these kinds of eateries for dinner, and bring friends. When that’s not an option, fine dining restaurants offer the same flavor with personal service to those traveling alone.

Having dinner at an izakaya

Otsumami (explained as small plates, Japanese tapas/pinxos, or simply drinking snacks) are a prime example of dinner food in Japan. The izakayas that open for lunch tend to serve teishoku set meals during the day. The setting sun brings out drinks, longer menus, and endless room for creativity. Nothing is more exciting or authentic than sampling 3 or 4 plates of very different food at an izakaya. 

A typical dinner might be made up of a mix including potato salad, sashimi, tsukune (chicken meatballs on a stick), and toast topped with whitebait. The izakaya dinner is a uniquely Japanese experience that makes an unforgettable group meal or solo memory.

What to Expect when Going to Dinner in Japan - Tips and Tricks

Many first-time visitors are surprised by dinner customs in Japan. Compared to lunch and breakfast, the way dinner is carried out, and the unspoken rules and customs around it can be a huge frustration for both restaurant owners and diners. To be best prepared for a life-changing evening meal in Japan, there are some expectations to keep in mind.

The Complexity of Reservations and Walk-in Dining

Dinner hours can be anywhere from 5pm - 5am or as short as 6:00 to last-orders taken at 7:30. For those who prefer an early meal, keep in mind that a lot of restaurants close between lunch and dinner, so not much will be open between 3 and 5pm. 

What to know when visiting as a group (4+ guests)

It can be shocking that restaurants will simply refuse guests if their seats are unavailable rather than offering a waiting list. Splitting parties into separate tables is also not usually as smoothly handled as it might be in other destinations. When visiting a restaurant as a group, it’s safe to expect that seating parties larger than four will be difficult without advance notice. In a pinch, places like Saizeriya, Kappazushi and Denny's can usually handle larger groups. 

How to handle dinner without a reservation

If a restaurant isn’t immediately available, it’s best not to expect to wait for a table to open up, and instead move on to plan B. Another useful hint for whether or not a restaurant is open to walk-ins is to look for sign-boards advertising the menu and readily visible open signs. When these are absent, even if the restaurant is operating, it can mean they don’t accept guests without a reservation. 

On the other hand, a line of stools or a bench outside the restaurant is a great signal that you’ll be able to wait for a seat to become available. Notably, ramen and other comfort food like soba or tonkatsu, and restaurants in malls and train stations, tend to function this way. Regardless, any awkward exchanges can be easily avoided with a preemptive phone call or even a same-day reservation.

How is dinner in Japan different from other countries?

How to order food and drinks at dinner in Japan

It’s totally normal to call over a waiter or waitress with “sumimasen!” to place an order rather than waiting for waitstaff to come to your table. Depending on the venue, guests might be required to order at least one drink and one food item per person – usually just a drink. That said, free refills are typically not offered for anything but tap water. Look for restaurants with a drink bar or nomihoudai (all you can drink) plan to maximize beverage freedom.

At bars and izakayas, guests often receive a small plate of food upon taking a seat. It’s best not to refuse, even if you don’t plan on eating it. These are called otoshi (or tsukidashi). They’re offered as a little thank you for paying what ultimately amounts to a table charge. A unique aspect of having dinner at izakayas is the ability to order just one drink and a plate of food or two at one venue, and move on to the next for a second “course.” This bar-hopping dining style is called hashigo.

Clothing and personal etiquette for dinner in Japan

Like the reservation customs, attire is also something to be aware of when heading out for dinner in Japan. People don't typically wear shorts/flip flops in general, and one shouldn’t expect these comfortable outfits to be the norm anywhere nicer than a Sukiya or Mcdonalds. This isn’t to say that staff will reject travelers that look like travelers at the door, but business casual is treated as casual in much of the country (especially Tokyo) and diners will likely feel a bit out of place otherwise. It’s generally recommended not to wear perfume (and forbidden in sushi or washoku restaurants), but deodorant is always preferable to body odor. 

Tips for Finding Dinner Restaurants in Japan

Our top tip is to use reservation platforms like Omakase, which can help you both find and book restaurants. Hotel concierge services will also be able to recommend and sometimes book restaurants for you. When staying at a ryokan, make sure to check if dinner is included in your plan before you arrive.

How to find walk-in restaurants in Japan without a reservation

When a walk-in dinner is necessary, look for signs outside restaurants with the menu. Signs with characters like 空席, which means there are open seats waiting, and 満席, which means you won’t be able to go in, are helpful for judging at a glance. Just be aware that even if there are open seats visible from the door, they may be reserved for regulars or call-aheads.

Sometimes shops will hire hawkers to wander outside the store and bring in customers, especially in high-traffic areas, making it easy to find restaurants that want walk-in guests.

Local tips for finding restaurants in big cities

A secret local tip is that restaurants with a lot of stickers on the door about travel and rating sites tend to be more open to tourists. They care about ratings and proudly display that they value customers highly. Another is not to be afraid to go to second floors and basements in popular neighborhoods when the ground level is too full or noisy. Especially in areas like Shibuya, Shinjuku and Osaka’s Dotonbori, these floors can hold hidden gems that will redefine your visit with one meal.

FAQ about Dinner in Japan

Q. What time is dinner in Japan?

Dinner in Japan typically begins between 6 PM and 8 PM and service finishes around 10PM. However, many restaurants open from 5 PM, and the cut off for ordering food and drinks may be as early as 30 minutes before the close of business. Some restaurants stay open until the last train or first train the next day.

Q. Can I eat alone at night in Japan?

Yes! Many ramen shops, sushi counters, and izakaya welcome solo diners. Counter seating is common and comfortable for one-person meals. If solo-dining seems daunting at first, warm up with some local fast food like gyudon or standing soba stalls. 

Q. What is included in a ryokan dinner?

Ryokan dinners are multi-course meals featuring local specialties, fresh seasonal ingredients, and regional sake. They're usually included in the fee for your stay. Depending on the season and region, ryokan meals can vary widely.

Q. Is tipping expected at dinner in Japan?

No, tipping is not customary in Japan. If you leave change behind, it’s more likely that staff will try to return it to you. Tipping and service charges are often covered by the table charge or otoshi fee. 

Q. What is the legal drinking age in Japan?

Adults 20 years of age and older are of legal drinking age in Japan. The standard drink order is “toriaezu, nama!” meaning, “Just a beer for now!”

OMAKASE Recommendations for an Unforgettable Dinner

Wagyu Kaiseki Tajimaya Umeda / Yakiniku / Osaka

While casual yakiniku is defined by its do-it-yourself grilling and all-you-can-eat plans, yakiniku at the highest level is prepared little by little by experts, making sure each cut of wagyu gets its time in the light. At Wagyu Kaiseki Tajimaya, Tajima beef exclusively used by this restaurant is grilled to perfection in a meat-focused course that ties up with yakiniku classics like Korean-inspired chilled noodles.

Asai / Sukiyaki / Tokyo

A Michelin selection two years in a row, Asai brings the comforting flavor of sukiyaki to fine dining excellence. The wagyu used here is specially selected to suit the store’s sauce, rather than the other way around. Asai uses a relatively lean cut of beef, accented by the seasonal vegetables and raw egg served as part of its signature, counter-prepared sukiyaki course.

Bistro Kappou YAOYA / Izakaya / Kyoto

This dinner venue is more than a bistro or an izakaya – it’s an intimate exploration of local sake and fresh food. Yaoya specializes in seafood, from grilled dishes to sashimi. It’s an ideal location to dive into the intimate setting of Japan’s most local nightlife with a guide who can educate first timers of the deliciousness of Kyoto sake and Japanese cuisine.

Torikaze / Yakitori/ Tokyo

Torikaze carries with it the legacy of Torishiki, promising expert grilling technique and incredible ingredient quality. Torikaze is headed by Yoshitaka Zeniya, who studied directly under Torishiki master chef Ikegawa. The chicken served is of the Date variety, and it's complimented by a few washoku styles dishes to keep it all interesting.