A Sushi Parade at Hakkoku: How to Enjoy the Experience and Its Disciples’ Shops

Hakkoku: A Sushi Restaurant That Focuses Solely on the Essentials

While many omakase (chef’s choice) courses today include a mix of appetizers and side dishes before the sushi is served, Hakkoku takes a more purist approach. The experience consists of 25 pieces of carefully crafted sushi, with only a small vegetable bite served midway as a palate cleanser. It’s an ideal choice for those who want to immerse themselves completely in the heart of sushi craftsmanship.

The History of Hakkoku

Hakkoku’s head chef, Hiroyuki Sato, began his journey training at Akizuki, a sushi restaurant run by Chef Hideki Hata, who himself trained at the legendary Ginza Kyubey. In 2013, Sato was appointed head chef at Sushi Tokami, a restaurant produced by the renowned tuna wholesaler Yamayuki. There, he quickly earned a Michelin star and turned the restaurant into one of Tokyo’s most talked-about sushi spots. In 2018, after passing the reins of Sushi Tokami to the next generation, Sato opened Hakkoku. The name, which evokes the Japanese concept of “black-and-white” clarity, reflects his deep respect for Bushido—the samurai code—and his strong personal philosophy behind the restaurant.

Feature 1: Bold, Red-Vinegared Sushi Rice — The Heart of Hakkoku

What sets Hakkoku apart most is its sushi rice. Made with akazu (red vinegar), the rice delivers a bold, punchy flavor that defines the entire dining experience. The course begins with a tuna hand-roll-style sushi, where the acidity of the vinegar perfectly complements the richness of the tuna, elevating both to a sublime balance.

The main vinegar used is Yohei, a highly aromatic and rare vinegar admired by sushi chefs but considered difficult to work with. This vinegar is the source of the rice’s distinctive strength. At Hakkoku, that punchy character is masterfully balanced with a proprietary blend of other vinegars, resulting in sushi rice that’s both powerful and refined.

Feature 2: A 25-Piece Sushi-Only Omakase Course

As mentioned, Hakkoku offers a pure sushi experience—25 pieces of sushi with no side dishes or small plates. While that might sound like a lot, each piece is intentionally made smaller, allowing most guests to finish the entire course comfortably.

Despite their compact size, each bite packs both depth and intensity. The bold rice and rich toppings create a sense of excitement with every piece, turning the meal into a rhythmic flow of flavor and craft.

Feature 3: Three Counter Rooms, Same Quality Across All

Hakkoku is uniquely structured with three private rooms, each equipped with counter seating. One room is led by Chef Sato himself, while the others are helmed by his trained disciples. Importantly, the sushi, toppings, and rice served are exactly the same across all rooms.

Initially, when the restaurant opened, the price varied depending on the chef—with Sato’s course being more expensive—but now, all rooms are offered at the same price. Each room has its own reservation slot, which we’ll explain in more detail later.

How to Reserve at Hakkoku (Honten)

H3 Reservations for Hakkoku can only be made through the online booking platform OMAKASE. Reservation slots open two months in advance of the desired dining date.

You’ll be able to choose between Chef Sato’s counter and the second and third counters led by his trusted disciples. All courses are priced the same, regardless of which counter you select.

While Chef Sato’s counter often books out quickly, it’s worth checking the OMAKASE calendar regularly—with persistence, you may find an available slot. That said, even the second and third counters are run by chefs personally selected and trained by Sato himself, chosen from among many of his disciples. Their skills are exceptional, and the quality of sushi across all counters is consistently outstanding.

Hakkoku Branches

Hakkoku Honten

This is the original Ginza location opened by Chef Sato. Upon exiting the elevator, guests enter a refined waiting area that sets an elegant tone and builds anticipation for the sushi experience ahead. From this waiting space, diners are escorted to their private rooms.

A signature dish carried over from Sato’s days at Sushi Tokami is the tuna “Tossaki,” served at the start of the meal as a kind of “business card” for Hakkoku. Tossaki is a rare cut from the back of the tuna’s head, available only in small amounts even from large fish. Its bold flavor and moderate fat content pair perfectly with Hakkoku’s powerful sushi rice, heightening excitement for the course to come.

Following this, the 25-piece sushi course featuring seasonal ingredients unfolds. Several times throughout the meal, small vegetable dishes are offered as palate cleansers.

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Sushidan

Opened in 2020 as an official branch by Chef Sato, Sushidan is now managed by Takehiro Arakawa, a chef personally endorsed by Sato. The restaurant was born from Sato’s long-standing friendship with the Japanese rock band Kishidan, and its name is a tribute to the group.

While Sushidan uses the same sushi rice as the main branch, the atmosphere here is more casual, and the prices are more affordable. The concept focuses solely on sushi, offering two set options: a 9-piece and a 12-piece course.

Unlike the main branch, guests can also order additional sushi or rolls à la carte to complement their set.

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Restaurants in the Hakkoku Lineage

Chef Sato, the second-in-command at Hakkoku, has trained many disciples, several of whom have gone on to open their own independent restaurants. Here are a few of those establishments.

Higashi-Azabu Saikoh

Jun Saito, who served as the second-in-command at Hakkoku from its opening in 2018, launched his own restaurant, Saikoh, in 2022. Like Hakkoku, the restaurant features private counter rooms — one led by Saito himself and the other by his second-in-command. As in Hakkoku’s early days, the omakase course at the second counter is offered at a slightly lower price.

Unlike Hakkoku’s singular focus on sushi, Saikoh incorporates seasonal small dishes served between the sushi, creating a more varied and dynamic dining experience. A standout feature is the enhanced waiting area, which includes a dedicated wine counter. This space functions as a private room and requires a separate reservation.

In this room, dishes are brought to the table rather than prepared in front of guests, and diners can choose between the full omakase or à la carte options.

The name Saikoh is a wordplay on Saito’s surname, blending multiple meanings: “the best” (saikoh) and the phrase “let’s go” (sa, ikoh), reflecting both ambition and approachability, as Saito himself explains.

Sushi Ugatsu

Tsuyoshi Sasaki worked as part of Hakkoku’s original opening team before establishing his own restaurant. After ten years of training at a renowned sushi restaurant in Ginza, Sasaki gained international experience and later joined Sushi Tokami—then led by Chef Sato—with the intention to eventually open his own place. He played a key supporting role there and continued working alongside Sato through the opening of Hakkoku.

Once Hakkoku was firmly established, Sasaki went independent and opened Sushi Ugatsu. The restaurant offers only an omakase course, structured in a style similar to Sushi Tokami — a combination of small seasonal dishes and sushi served throughout the meal.

Located in Setagaya, one of Tokyo’s quiet residential neighborhoods, the restaurant offers a serene setting where guests can enjoy sushi crafted with the same level of precision and quality found at Hakkoku.

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Summary

Hakkoku’s all-sushi omakase course has gained attention—not as a gimmick, but as a true expression of Chef Sato’s uncompromising philosophy rooted in clarity and conviction.

The boldly flavored, distinctive sushi rice adds depth and character, bringing each piece to life in a way that sets Hakkoku apart.

For those seeking a focused and refined sushi experience, the 25-piece course at Hakkoku is not to be missed.